Mad Hungry Cravings: 173 Recipes for the Food You Want to Eat Right Now

Mad Hungry Cravings: 173 Recipes for the Food You Want to Eat Right Now

Author: Lucinda Scala Quinn

Publisher: Artisan (2013)

You’ve been there – it’s 1:15 AM and you’re awake, jolted out of a doze-fest by the call of your stomach. Or you’re faced with making dinner for one or two – and the pile of take-out menus is looking very inviting. Then there are some days the standard family staples just don’t cut it – but since money is generally tight and diets are increasingly more complex, dialing in or going out is no longer a “get up and go” process. But cravings happen, and when they do Lucinda Scala Quinn is there to help slake them with her new book Mad Hungry Cravings: 173 Recipes for the Food You Want to Eat Right Now.

Mad Hungry Cravings addresses both the “junkie” and the “virtuous” yearnings of the stomach, for all times of day and night. Broken down into four major sections (Break the Fast First, Anytime 24/7, What’s for Dinner?, Spirits & Sweets), there are chapters within each for the “traditional” parts of each meal (i.e. salads, sides). Colour photos of many dishes scatter the pages, which are pure heaven for the eyes and make your mouth water. If you weren’t craving Chicken Livornese (p. 176) before (or didn’t even know what it was), Jonathan Lovekin’s shots will spark one in short order. Scala Quinn also includes some of her own personal photography in black and white, adding to the bold graphic design of the book as well as adding a touch of heart to the printed word.

The opening pages of Mad Hungry Cravings are packed with information and are a fantastic read for novice and seasoned cooks alike.  The Mad Hungry Maxims (p. 5) are so true it hurts – shopping is half the job of cooking, don’t bite off more than you can chew, and above all... you’ve got to want to do it are take away points. I appreciated the chapter on expanding your repertoire and making cooking meals a learning experience. While the mother in Scala Quinn ties many of the points in Broaden Your Horizons (p. 9) to raising children, they are still fully valid for adults young and old. Finally, The Larder (p. 11) is both an entertaining and informative portion of the introduction  which categorizes key ingredients and flavours for many of the common “restaurant” cuisines (American, Asian, Mediterranean and Latin) that readers will need to keep on hand if they plan on eating that type frequently. Some of the ingredients come with their own little tips to maximizing their potential, or what to look for when shopping (i.e. “pure”, not “imitation”, vanilla).

Greek Yogurt Cake (p. 264)

Many recipes in Mad Hungry Cravings have an international lean due to the popularity of ethnic restaurants. Written by an American, there is a slight bias as to which dishes are considered “craveable” – some international readers may struggle with understanding the allure of Collard Greens with Ham and Bacon (p. 225) and Chicken-Fried Steak (p. 160), and since all the measurements are in imperial volume, it can present a chore to flip back and forth to the conversion chart at the back (although granted it is a very thorough one). Traditional “home cooked” recipes are also included of course, being some of the most commonly yearned-for dishes. A luscious Peach Pie (p. 278), Mac ‘n’ Cheese (p. 194) and chili-sauced Old-School Meat Loaf (p. 152) are just a handful of items that will transport diners back to after-school dinners and summer BBQ’s. Every recipe is approachable for most home cooks thanks to clear and thorough instructions, and while I wish there was a photo for every meal, I also appreciate that the book isn’t 5” thick thanks to full page pictures.

Banana Chocolate Chip Cookies (p. 285)

Possibly my favourite part about the recipes in this book is the personal story Scala Quinn attaches to each of them. Whether it’s an anecdote regarding vacations surrounding Chicago Hot Dogs (p. 77) to how she started adding nutrition to her boys’ snacks with Banana Chocolate Chip Cookies (p. 285). Some of the introductions offer handy tips for storage or suggestions for serving as well.

I sampled three recipes from Mad Hungry Cravings, each relatively simple to put together as written and yet gloriously accepting of interpretation. The first item I made was the Greek Yogurt Cake (p. 264), which was fantastically moist and tender, perfectly translating to my version: a Moist Lime Sour Cream Cake. On a roll with the dessert side of things, I made the aforementioned Banana Chocolate Chip Cookies (p. 285) – stuffed with dark chocolate truffles rather than chocolate chips – and the absolutely sinful Dark-Chocolate Peanut Butter Pretzel Squares (p. 283). The only issue my taste testers had with the squares was that the peanut butter flavour overpowered the blend of ingredients rather than remaining a separate entity, and that the whole mixture was a little dense in texture (they suggested more marshmallows, which I definitely plan to try later on). Regardless, all three treats disappeared in short order, and I definitely plan to try some of the savouries (in particular the Chicken Tikka Masala (p. 171) and the Maple-Thyme Roasted Carrots (p. 230)). More recipes from the book appear in the Martha Stewart website’s “Sneak Peek at "Mad Hungry Cravings," Lucinda Scala Quinn's Newest Cookbook” slideshow.

Dark-Chocolate Peanut Butter Pretzel Squares (p. 283)

If you eat out (or take in) more often than not, you will find at least one winner in Mad Hungry Cravings: 173 Recipes for the Food You Want to Eat Right Now. With recipes as varied and delicious as the ones presented by Lucinda Scala Quinn, as long as you can clear the delivery menus off the stove, dust off a few pans and boil water, a fantastic meal or snack can be yours in the same amount of time as the pizza guy, for less money and hassle. 

Available on Amazon

The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook

The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook 

Authors: Cheryl and Griffith Day

Publisher: Artisan (2012)

It’s commonly said that while cooking is an art, baking is a science. To me, that evokes pictures of white-coat, tyrannical chefs weighing out every speck of flour and spooning out the quarter-teaspoon of sugar that pushes the tare that milligram over the “appropriate” amount. That is no way to fall in love with the glorious art of the kitchen and really enjoy the time you spend baking treats for your loved ones. Thankfully, Cheryl and Griffith Day share the same happy, hearty approach to baking, and together they opened the Back in the Day Bakery – “the best little bakery in the South” – in 2002. Ten years later, the couple penned the bakery’s cookbook and won over the stomachs and hearts of those who knew the establishment as well as Back in the Day newbies.

Brown Sugar Tomato Jam (p. 238)

The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook is very much attuned to the “down home” comfort food we all know and love. At the same time, the Days have upped the ante on many recipes, bringing new and delightful twists on tradition. With chapters devoted to Breakfast; Coffee Cakes, Quick Breads and Sweet Yeast Breads; Cupcakes and Cakes; Pies, Cobblers, Crisps, and Tarts; Puddings and Custards; Cookies; Brownies and Bars; Confections; and Savouries, there is something to love for every age and disposition. The introductory section of this book is dedicated to the historical story of the Days and the Bakery and is beautifully written – a theme that continues throughout the remaining pages. Every portion of Back in the Day flows in a way that feels like Cheryl or Griffith is speaking with you in casual conversation, the passion they have for their craft silently infusing itself into the reader. The commentary is not excessive, but is enough to drive home the “small town” feel of the Bakery and make the reader feel comfortable.

The first section also includes a list of the key tools for any baker and the spices the Bakery values in their work, but the most critical (and interesting) portion of the first 10 pages is The Method to the Magic (p. 5). This six-part segment details the areas to pay careful attention to when preparing to bake in order to achieve consistent success. These tips range from the common sense (read the recipe through before starting, make sure you understand it, and take out all the ingredients) to the scientific (why and when eggs are needed, leaveners and ingredient temperatures) to the “hidden tricks” the Days have found helpful in practice (like moving the batter from the mixing bowl to another bowl). While not in the introduction, Back in the Day also has a section of ingredient and supply Resources (p. 249) that is a welcome boon for those in small communities or who are loath to shop around in person.

PB & J Bars (p. 195)

Readers will note that there is a lot of instruction involved with Back in the Day. This is not to say the book coddles the would-be baker – while there are simpler recipes (like Chocolate Chip Cookies (p. 172) and Blackberry Cobbler (p. 121)), the recipes in the Confections chapter (p. 207), as well as the infamous Salted Caramel Apple Pie (p. 118) involve candy-making techniques and require a candy thermometer. Secondary recipes and hints (called “Sweet Notes”) pepper the pages, from making simple syrup (p. 87) to colouring sprinkles (p. 67), and recipe-specific tips are included where relevant. There is even a page dedicated to ideas for packaging the treats as gifts (p. 186), many of which I plan to use for the holidays.

Of course, a cookbook is nothing without good, solid recipes to stand behind – and Back in the Day delivers in this respect as well. While the majority of the book is at home in the sweet kitchen, there is a chapter dedicated to Savouries (p. 223) as well as a few saltier inclusions in with the Breakfasts (p. 13). I fell in love with the Brown Sugar Tomato Jam (p. 238), especially after adding a dash of ancho chili powder. It took perfectly to canning in small jars for Christmas stocking stuffers, and I saved a small pot of it to top extra-old cheddar and walnut gougères. On the sweeter side of things, the PB & J Bars (p. 195) were a huge hit both as written and in a smaller, veganized batch that I made with oat flour, ground chia seeds, flaked almonds and crab apple jelly. Of all the recipes I tried in Back in the Day, the crowning glory was by far Cheryl’s Brownies (p. 190). These rich, fudgey-cakey bars deserve a special mention not only because they were simple to prepare and easy to modify (expample: I left out the nuts for our plain-Jane brownie family), but because they garnered the approval of my most discerning taste-tester: my supertaster sister. Not only did these get a thumbs-up, but the empty pan returned with her on her first weekend home from university with a note signed by all her housemates requesting “more, please!”. Considering that requests for a remake of anything not originating from a package mix are as common as an ostrich in full flight, this book would be worth a buy for that recipe alone. The Creole Brownies (p. 193) are another stellar chocolate option, perfect for the bittersweet connoisseur, the base a dense block of baked cookie-cake peppered with cacao nibs layered with a decadent coffee-laced ganache. While I haven’t had time quite yet, the Brown Sugar Banana Bread (p. 45) and the aforementioned Salted Caramel Apple Pie are definitely on my must-make roster.

Cheryl's Brownies (p. 190)

If you love the experience of bringing a comforting, decadent bakery experience to your home kitchen (and reading the tale of two determined bakers who could), you’ll adore The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook. From charming stories to handy hints and sinfully delightful goodies, the pages are packed with feasts for the eyes and stomach.

Available on Amazon

Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts: Quicker Smarter Recipes

Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts: Quicker Smarter Recipes

Author: Alice Medrich

Publisher: Artisan Publishing (2012)

Now that the school year is in full swing once more, many PTAs and fundraising groups are going to be pushing bake sale participation onto parents and children alike. Unfortunately, the story of the child who comes home from school claiming they "need something for the bakesale... tomorrow" is all too real and parents are hesitant to use a packaged mix or swing by the bakery the next morning can find themselves up till 2AM mixing and decorating something sellable. Even if bake sales are not an issue, impromptu dinner guests and holiday parties tax the already busy individual looking to impress, and sometimes simply having a sweet treat after a Saturday night dinner is desired! Dessert guru Alice Medrich has compiled a book of recipes that are just what the doctor ordered for the harried sweet tooth. From packable, individual cookies and cupcakes to standout pies and bread puddings, Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts: Quicker Smarter Recipes has something to savour.

Medrich follows the philosophy of keeping things simple in the sweet kitchen, and like her previous Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies the square book is easy to read, clear and concise, with full colour photos of many recipes. Beginning with an incredibly useful listing of "basic dessert pantry" items and helpful kitchen tools (p. 9-13), novice bakers are given a perfect go-to guide for their first shopping trip, including a list of treats in the book that can be made with bare-bones essentials. An extra glossary of both ingredients (p. 270) and equipment (p. 274) prefaces the American resource listing (p. 277) and a well-organized complete index. The recipes in Sinfully Easy are also interspersed with "un-recipes" for basics like meringue (both crunchy and crisp-chewy, my personal favourite) (p. 160), yogurt cheese (p. 114), crostini (p. 16), vanilla sugar (p. 53) and toasted nuts (p. 256). Medrich ups the approachability factor of this book by including "generalized" tutorials as well. Whether the occasion calls for cake (p. 170), chocolate and cocoa (p. 97), cookies (p. 236) or nuts (p. 256), help is offered in a simple to understand and apply format that doesn't preach to nor bore the reader.

True to it's title, offerings in Sinfully Easy are fairly quick and uncomplicated which makes it a boon for parents with fledgling cooks in the kitchen. While I question the need for actual recipes like Cinnamon Toast (p. 28), Lightly Sweetened Whipped Cream (p. 130), Chocolate Shards (p. 232), Grilled Chocolate Sandwiches (p. 254) and Chocolate-Dipped Fruit (p. 264) rather than simply including them as "ideas" in one of the many other sections, most are gems that are simple without being inane. Go-to items like the The Best One-Bowl Chocolate Cake (p. 174) and Bill's Food Processor Chocolate Mousse (p. 90) can be prepared by older children or used as measurement and preparation teaching opportunities for parents, and with the options for many frostings, compotes, and other garnish recipes Medrich includes even the most basic of items can be made into a showstopping dessert. For those with a posher palate, items such as Carrot Almond Torte (p. 206) and custards (including a decadent Bittersweet Cocoa Souffle (p. 126) and French Chocolate Mousse (p. 93)) are more complex alternatives to the Classic Carrot Cake (p. 209) and Chocolate Pudding (p. 88).

I had the pleasure of making several of the items in Sinfully Easy over the Summer, and not a single one disappointed in the flavour department. While the cupcakes I made using the One-Bowl Vanilla Cake (p. 222) recipe sunk horribly in the middle (despite being cooked through), I used it as an opportunity to fill them with thick, rich Mocha Fudge Frosting (p. 180) and cap things off with the lighter but still indulgent Extra-Good Vanilla Bean Frosting (p. 181, sidebar). The result was incredibly well received by those I served them to and no one ever suspected the cake portion had a problem at all. For my bread-pudding (and banana) loving dad, I made a variation of the Salted Caramel Banana Bread Puddings (p. 118) in coffee mugs (as I did not have, nor could I find, any 6-ounce ramekins) using Medrich's Butterscotch Toffee Sauce (p. 25). A word to the wise regarding the toffee sauce: ensure the cream (or coconut milk in my case) is warm before stirring into the sugar, or it will separate and curdle. I found that this step allowed me to use even a lower-fat dairy product (whole milk) than the heavy cream called for without separation problems.

Probably the two most valuable portions of Sinfully Easy are Medrich's "[T]hings to do with..." sections and her wealth of variations for a set basic recipe. Not only does the book include the chapters Starting with Ice Cream (p. 15) and Starting with Fruit (p. 47), but ideas for using vanilla ice cream, ripe strawberries, yogurt, gingerbread, and chocolate bars are included as well - allowing even the most rushed person to enjoy a sweet treat. Almost every recipe includes variations for flavour, texture or application, from 10 Ways to Flavour Whipped Cream (p. 131) to turning the dense mousse of the Chocolate Marquise (p. 95) into a pie. These variations raise the economic value of this book immensely while keeping the reader interested by providing several recipes in one, and in times where budgets are tight it can be an excuse to justify an otherwise frivolous sounding dessert cookbook.

Whether you are baking for your family, a special occasion or those sudden fundraisers, Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts: Quicker Smarter Recipes can fit the bill. It is a good first "sweet kitchen" book for teenagers and adult baking neophytes alike and is so rich in variety that it is virtually impossible to make the same thing twice in a year. Even if you normally take a pass on the sweet table, this book by Alice Medrich will convert you at first taste.

Available on Amazon

The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten and Lactose

The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten and Lactose Author: Barbara Kafka
Publisher: Artisan Publishing (2011)

At group events, and especially at holiday time, it’s becoming increasingly inevitable that at least one member of the party will have some form of food allergy, intolerance or special dietary need. Whether you are the afflicted person or the understanding host, it can be a stressful time orchestrating who can (or will) eat what, if “safe zones” of contaminant-free eats are required, and what both parties can do to ensure that the night goes off without a hitch. From my own personal experience, the extent and severity of an allergy situation can lead to a life of mono-dieting and even resentment from others over meals that are not “normal” under conventional norms.  Barbara Kafka, author of several cookbooks including the best-selling Vegetable Love, addresses two of the most common dietary restrictions – gluten and lactose – in her latest work The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten and Lactose.

The 230 page book is filled with 300 recipes which the front cover proudly declares are “for every day and every need”. This claim is partially true – many of the time-blessed, omnivorous  foodies living in well stocked city centres will find most of these meals no issue to create. However, if you eschew meat and seafood, or live in an area where the local grocery does not carry items like sorrel, samphire, and chervil, or come home at 7:30PM on a weeknight to a hungry family and whatever’s in the fridge, Intolerant Gourmet is simply too gourmet for frequent use. While I’m sure the author means well in her quest to write this recipe-packed book, I think it may fall into disuse by many home cooks who are turned off by the gratuitous inclusion of offal, game birds, pork rind and caviar.

It is clear that Kafka is nowhere close to writing vegetarian-friendly dishes as a constant, either. Every soup or other dish calling for broth or stock utilizes chicken broth, which granted is easily substituted but still a disappointment when looking for an inherently vegetarian option. A whole appetizer section is dedicated to pâté. Of the main courses (including salads), only eight are meatless, and only five of those are vegan. Sweets and baked goods are not even worth mentioning with regards to this work, which is a shame since many gluten and lactose free individuals find these items the hardest to replace.  

There are, however, a few gems in Intolerant Gourmet. Quinoa-Crusted Chicken (p. 87) is ingenious and works equally well on extra-firm tofu slabs. Magical Green Tomatoes (p. 156) are no lie in their name – though the amount of oil called for is far too much (Kafka has written ½ cup, while I found a tablespoon or less to suffice). Zesty Rice Paper Chips (p. 24) and Hummus (p. 28), though almost too basic to put in any cookbook, were still well-received offerings at a recent dinner party. If I was a meat eater, I would agree with my mother that the Roast Chicken with Garlic Sauce (p. 87) would tempt my tastebuds as well.

The Intolerant Gourmet also finds strength in Kafka’s extensive research sections. Detailing everything from “Perfectly Poached Eggs” (p. 19) to a full-page chart of the best gluten-free pasta varieties (p. 39), the book also includes an entire chapter on starches and beans, featuring charts for the proper cooking of grains (p. 222) and using flours (p. 223) as well as a glossary of the varieties Kafka features in her recipes. These informative sections are worthy of their own, separate book, as they are truly things that the everyday, all-occasion cook can use regardless of dietary preferences, allergies or other restrictions.

For the adventurous, time-gifted cook, The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten and Lactose by Barbara Kafka is a book worth perusing for ideas come the next dinner party. It is not a “30-minutes-to-table” work, though I don’t believe it was ever really intended to be one. For the rest of us time-, cash- or resource-poor individuals, it is a book to read not so much for the recipes as for the information laced through it.

Available on Amazon

Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies

Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies
Author: Alice Medrich
Publisher: Artisan (2010)

As a baker, whenever I make cookies for a group I know that it’s always asking for trouble in one form or another. There’s always those that want their cookie treats soft, others chewy, and still others want a good crunch when they bite in. The contents (or lack thereof) filling the bakes are another sticky point – do you want to be presented with a quarter pound of chocolate, peanut butter, pretzels, oats and fruit? Or are you more the “less is more” type, who is perfectly content with a graham cracker or a simple sugar cookie? What about bar cookies – where do they fit in on the spectrum? For any cookie-lover or cookie-baker with a spectrum of tastes comes a book from one of the queens of cuisine, Alice Medrich. Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies is a title enough to make your mouth water, and Medrich covers all those categories, and more.

With all the other baking and dessert “bibles” out there, with a good amount authored by Medrich herself, do we really need yet another cookie book? The unique aspect of this book is that it is incredibly inclusive of all kinds of cookies. Organized by texture, the chapters encompass crispy, crunchy, chunky, chewy, gooey, flaky, and melt-in-your-mouth offerings, sure to win over anyone. With a highly cross-referenced appendix and index, Chewy even includes cookies perfect for those on wheat-free diets or are trying to lose weight. If not inherently low-fat or wheat free (like meringues), many of the recipes have fairly easy modifications included. There are even whole-grain cookies included in the book – a rarity in any other “mainstream” baking manual... but do not be fooled – this is no diet cookbook! Fat and sugar are still in abundance, and there is no hiding of the fact that cookies are a treat. Medrich also gives a comprehensive list of recipes for special "[c]omponents" (p. 335) of her cookies such as flavoured sugars, fillings and glazes in the back of the book, most of which are equally at home in any baking application.
 

The one thing Medrich’s book does not contain is a gluten-free recipe modifier, so while there may be no wheat in her Golden Kamut Shortbread p. 332 they are not the Christmas cookie of choice for your celiac best friend. There are also few vegan cookies in the book, but Medrich is not out there to proclaim Chewy as a book for any specific diet. The very fact that specific modifiers for several of her recipes should be applauded as a move towards accepting the variety of special needs out there.

My only pressing issue with Chewy is that Medrich’s book is fairly tricky to bake from if money’s tighter than you’d like it to be (like around Christmas, for example!) and you don’t want to shell out for expensive ingredients. While many of the recipes are fairly simple in their design, is there no lack of somewhat more “gourmet” goods, nor is there skimping on the quantities of rich ingredients. Your butter and egg bills, for example, will be significantly higher than normal if you’re not in the habit of purchasing them often! Medrich also seems to adore calling for chocolate and all kinds of nuts in Chewy. Most of the brownies (a weakness of both my taste-testers and I) contain half a pound of unsweetened chocolate for an 8” square pan, though she does (thankfully) include two cocoa-based recipes as well. For everyday bake sales or home snacking, her Cocoa Brownies (p. 222) and Less is More Overnight Brownies (p. 206) are more than passable... in fact, I preferred them to the melted-chocolate filled ones.

One thing I absolutely adored about Medrich’s latest work is her creativity with such an old bake sale treat. Cookies are the kind of dessert or after-school snack that are subject to becoming tiresome, since there really are a finite number of ways to re-purpose your old chocolate chippers. I thoroughly enjoyed picking out some goodies in Chewy to try, though it was agony not to make almost all of them! Luckily for me, I do have a (very) well-stocked pantry and basically had my pick of the lot when it came to selecting my Christmas giveaways. With the nutritionists at school clamouring for something yummy and energy-packed during exams, when I happened upon Medrich’s Honey Hemp Bars (p. 157), I knew I had to try them out. While it took up twice the room (filling the bottom of a 9x13” pan instead of an 8” square), the recipe only gave me 12 bars, rather than her stated 16-20. They were definitely worth the bake though! However, I would definitely exercise caution with these! Expensive ingredients aside (for me the pan came to almost $8), hemp seed and some of the other additions to these rich bars are a bit of an acquired taste. I couldn’t get a single child to try it, but then again when the cereal aisles are chock-full of little more than candy bars I wouldn’t expect puffed millet and date paste to exactly draw them in. As for the adult set? Well, the ones who got a taste certainly enjoyed them – and I say those who got a taste because as soon as the word was out that a bar better than the school’s storebought ones was on the table they disappeared!

The award for the prettiest cookies I’ve made from Chewy to date, though, has to go to an “upgrade” Medrich gives for her (also to die for) Peanut Butter Clouds (p. 296) using tahini and sesame seeds. A basic egg-white and sugar meringue gets made, then the decadence of the seed paste and seeds are folded in and the mixture is piped into cute little kisses. If you are a sesame lover at all, you must try these crisp morsels... and being nut- dairy- and gluten-free (not to mention great keepers!), they are a good bet for a holiday potluck or office party.

If you are an experienced baker with a yen for discovering the vast world of cookie-making, Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies is one of the most unique, well-referenced and inclusive baking bibles currently out there. It’s a book so detailed and complex in it’s offerings that completely novice chefs may feel overwhelmed by, and it’s sometimes pricey additions can further stall them for fear that they might fail. The benefit of any cookie-making experiment is that you can usually still eat the “failures” – and Medrich make a point to educate and help in any way possible though her glossary entries and resource list. No matter what kind you fancy, I’m confident you’ll find something sweet!

Available on Amazon