Author: Charles W.G. Smith
Publisher: Storey Publishing (2010)
Borage (p. 29) Blossoms |
My family is fortunate enough to have a large and varied
backyard garden providing us with months of organic produce every year. From
heirloom tomatoes, carrots and beets to my stepdad's favourite hot peppers and
Romano beans, we run the growing gamut as it were - we even have a vineyard,
strawberry patches, and both fig and Meyer lemon trees! When it comes to
appreciating this bounty, we try to keep things as simple as possible, but
after a while we fall into a rut with our flavour pairings. Sure, salt and
freshly ground black pepper on still-warm tomatoes is fantastic, and hot
peppers are wonderful on sandwiches and pizza, but fresh herbs have the ability
to elevate even the most pedestrian, store bought items to new heights. While we
often buy our herbs at the grocery store, they are easy and certainly more
economical to grow at home - whether in the garden or in planters on the
windowsill. What to choose for your kitchen herb garden, how to grow it and -
most importantly - how to use it are the tenets of Charles WG Smith's book The
Beginner’s Guide to Edible Herbs: 26 Herbs Everyone Should Grow and Enjoy.
Oregano (p. 107) |
Smith's book is small and succinct in that it only
contains 26 of the hundreds
of culinary herbs available. However, this 143-page manual contains
everything a gardener could need to know about those herbs, and the ones chosen
for inclusion in Edible Herbs really are some of the most quintessential
in classical European and North American cooking. The beautifully photographed
images in this book lend assurance to the reader that they are buying the
correct item once at the nursery, and I have brought this guide with me on
occasion so that the staff could help me find a particular plant. This was
incredibly helpful, especially in the case of herbs like calendula (p. 36), borage (p.
29), bee balm (p. 26) and the hyssops (pgs. 11, 80), since these plants
are more often grown for their gorgeous blossoms than for their culinary
applications. Some readers may even find that a flavour goldmine is sitting in
their own backyards!
Catnip (p. 46) Leaves and Blossoms |
Once the herbs for this season (at least) are chosen,
Smith really begins his strongest work. If the reader is unsure about growing
anything at all (I know several "black thumbs" out there), the
introduction to Edible Herbs addresses the best places to plant in
general, "companion" herbs and vegetables, preventing the common
"herb sprawl" (with a clever little piece titled Beware the Garden Huns (p.3)) and general care and tending. There
is even a handy "yield guide" (p.
6) to prevent the gung-ho gardener having to give away (or worse, throw out)
armfuls of mint or lemon balm halfway through the season. I only wish I had read this book sooner, since with only two catnip plants I've been giving away tons of it, not to mention "doping up" our three cats almost every day! Each herb in the book
is given it's own chapter, which is divided into "garden" and
"kitchen" sections. The "In the Garden" sector covers
seeding, final planting and harvesting techniques, as well as providing a simple-to-read
chart of ideal soil and light for that
particular plant, as well as whether it is considered an annual or perennial.
Dried Calendula (p. 36) Petals |
Once the bounty of herbs is harvested, the "In the
Kitchen" component of each of Edible Herbs' chapters comes through,
providing ideas as to just what to do with each part of the plant that is
considered edible, flavour pairings to try, and general tips on usage. These tips
are along the lines of when to add an herb to a dish for best flavour
(beginning, midway through or as a finishing touch), if the herbs should be
cooked with the other ingredients or only used raw, and whether it's best to
choose a fresh or dried version in a recipe. After reading that calendula (p. 36) was considered a saffron
substitute, I immediately bought three plants for my own herb garden with grand
plans for paella. Unfortunately, the combination of unseasonably warm weather
and our hungry backyard wildlife meant I only managed two harvests before they all
perished or were eaten, but what I could save I dried, now I can't wait for my
first batch of rice pilaf with "Canadian saffron".
Drying Calendula (p.36) |
The thing I find confusing with this book is that the
recipes and culinary guides are not always cohesive with the herb chapter they
appear in. For instance, Making Herbal
Vinegars (p.101) is nestled between Marjoram and Mint, yet neither of the
two recipes offered contain either of those herbs. Also, while I don't expect
complete innovation in terms of recipe suggestions, I did hope for something slightly
more than a pizza (p. 110) for
oregano and pickles for dill (p. 65).
That said, the recipes themselves are good, solid formulae, and once our
vegetables catch up I'm looking forward to enjoying the spicy-sweet Red Onion, Mango and Chile Salsa (p. 60)
and bowls of the hearty Beta Soup (p. 25)
well into the fall and winter.
A "Lemon" Variety of Thyme (p. 137) |
For so few herbs included in the pages of Edible Herbs,
the level of inspiration available to the reader is astounding. From budding
gardeners to old pros in the dirt, kitchen newbies to seasoned gourmands, one
of the twenty-six is likely to find a niche in your household. Some herbs may
be completely foreign to your eye and palate, while others will be old
favourites, but Charles W.G. Smith brings them all together in an accessible,
approachable guidebook. With The Beginner’s Guide to Edible Herbs: 26 Herbs
Everyone Should Grow and Enjoy, there is no excuse for not going green in
your diet and your yard.
Available on Amazon
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