The Leafy Greens Cookbook
Author: Kathryn Anible
Publisher: Ulysses
Press (2013)
Everyone knows that dark leafy greens are a nutritious,
low-calorie option that should be included more often than not in our diets.
However, their positives – vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and varieties – are
often overshadowed by their “negatives”. In this day of over-sweetened,
over-oiled, over-salted meals, our palates are trained to perceive the taste of
a beautiful leaf of rainbow chard, a head of kale or a pancake-like collard as
too bitter to eat. As a result, many home cooks no longer know how to cook them
well, or cook them at all. Chefs that put the greens on their menus are divided
between the “raw vegan” camp and those who adhere to the Southern style of
cooking, adding copious quantities of pork meat and fat before stewing for
hours. There is a happy medium in all of this, though, and it’s one that
Kathryn Anible strives for in The Leafy Greens Cookbook.
Leafy Greens has 100 recipes ranging from
smoothies to salads, soups and suppers. Some are relatively tame and
“conventional”, like the Arugula Salad
with Strawberry Balsamic Vinaigrette (p.
8) and the currently haute Kale Chips
(p. 50) – both excellent introductions to the world of culinary greenery.
More adventurous palates are catered to as well, with offerings like Sautéed Radicchio and Endive with Quinoa and
Capers (p. 52) and Arugula Hummus (p.
34). Those who are well accustomed to the taste and (somewhat strange)
composition of green juices and smoothies will find no shortage of inspiration,
with 14 concoctions such as Super Greens
Juice (p. 93) – made with spinach, kale, parsley and cucumber amongst other
things – and a Spinach, Peanut Butter and
Banana Smoothie (p. 96). I was let down slightly by the fact that there was
no use of the greens in sweet applications, as they can work quite well and
many parents (and picky adults) would find these a good way to “sneak in” some
extra nutrition. Each recipe is accompanied by a brief introduction, and while
there are no photos (a sad oversight) the recipe titles are eye-catching and
descriptive enough to warrant a look. Unfortunately, the photos on the cover
are not of actual recipes in Leafy Greens, but rather shutterstock
purchases – something I discovered when scouring for the kale-pine nut- and
cranberry dish on the back (called Sautéed Kale by Andi Berger).
For anyone brand new to eating more than iceberg lettuce
salads, Leafy Greens comes complete with a detailed introduction and
glossary covering the types of edible leaves as well as a few paragraphs on
their health benefits as a whole. I particularly liked the practical details of
the vegetables’ appearances (handy when shopping!) as well as the note that “[w]hile not every green will become a
favourite, they are all worth trying” (p. 5). This is good advice for any
new ingredient and definitely worth remembering in the kitchen!
My favourite thing about this book is that the recipes
are so varied that it’s impossible to
say you hate all forms of all greens. I still detest any green in smoothies, but give me a plate of Spinach and Ricotta Stuffed Shells (p. 65) or a side of Roasted Shaved Brussels Sprouts with
Parmesan (p. 42) and it is gone in a flash. Likewise, my mother would never
serve up a bowlful of Black Bean, Corn
and Kale Salad (p.17) for lunch, but I finally convinced her that the green
was delicious in African Peanut Stew (p.
29). The stew recipe is not for those sensitive to heat, however, since
even after accidentally quadrupling the peanut butter and using a milder chili
than the habanero called for, my curry was just barely edible. I can’t imagine
what it would be like as written, but I doubt there would be a discernible
flavour after all that powerful flame. The Saag
Paneer (p. 69) was far more palatable – spicy but flavourfully so – even though
it looked less than appetizing on the plate. It was also a dish easily made
lighter by using skim milk for the cheese in the recipe or purchasing pressed
non-fat cottage cheese and skipping the cheese-making altogether.
 |
| African Peanut Stew (p. 29) |
Needless to say, there is something for everyone to be
found in The Leafy Greens Cookbook. Whatever your preference, the book
makes it easy – and tasty – to add the nutrient-dense produce to your table in
forms from the predictable to the outlandish, and Kathryn Anible’s recipes will
turn many preconceived notions of bitter leaves on their heads. It just goes to
show you that it can be easy being
green!
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